domingo, 24 de noviembre de 2013

Surfing is Everything

Surfing is like nothing else. It's sunburnt backs & bloodshot eyes. It's paddling back out for one more, 10 times. Surfing is melting wax & burning sand. It's warm water, salt water, and a dry mouth. It's calling a mate into the best wave of the morning. Surfing is tubes & turns & flying down the line. It's head-dips & chop-hops, hoots & high-fives. It's three fins and one fin, two fins and none. Surfing is being local yet still searching. It's road-trips, boarding passes & rocking boats. It's a tropical reef & a track through the dunes. Surfing is the first view of the ocean every morning. Surfing is who we are... #surfingiseverything